Friday, June 01, 2012

Summer Read: Surfers' Blood

Excited for this book by Patrick Trefz, longtime surf photographer. Out on the shelves in the US by July 3.  And I quote from

"A beautiful collection of oceanscapes, portraits, and action shots, Trefz captures the most intense, glamorous, and frightening aspects of surfing along with moments of beauty, stillness, and serenity. The book juxtaposes world champions and unsung local heroes, monster waves and gentle rollers."

I believe this is Joel Tudor...?

Sunset beauty

This is so true I won't even attempt to re-phrase this.  Surfers will definitely relate, non-surfers will want to pick up a board and try the sport (if it's appropriate to even call it that): 

"Surfing is all about mankind’s intimate connection with the badass energy and beauty of nature. It is a deep bond, and for many surfing is a lifelong devotion and a spiritual outlet—a personal experience far removed from its much-hyped and commercialized public persona. Surfing is deeper than magazines and Hollywood depictions would lead us to believe…much deeper. 

For most surfers, surfing is in their blood and it connects them to an extended family that is linked through practice, tradition, craft, emulation, apprenticeship, and shared experience. 

Surfers’ Blood reaches out to those hardcore, dyed-in-the-wool surfers through an honest and beautiful portrayal of their sport and its surrounding culture, while at the same time offering outsiders a peek into the intense undiluted world of surf."

That's some angry-looking wave.

It's pretty much said that right now might be the "Golden Age of Philippine surfing".  I've only been surfing 4 or 5 years, but surfing in the Philippines is gaining popularity so fast and surf spots are being discovered and enjoyed left & right.  More & more surf enthusiasts hit the road every weekend and I could say there is really a community building up with surfing as its core lifestyle.  10 years ago there wasn't even a single surf shop (well, maybe one) in Manila and yet now there seems to be one in every mall.    
I remember what my local friends in Siargao told me,  there weren't even any boards to practice w/ when they were kids.  The whole community had to share 1 crummy, makeshift surfboard left by kind tourists, crudely cut to their size.  Kids now have the "tools" and the means to learn surfing, what w/ surf schools and proper lessons offered at your nearest popular surf spot.  What was enjoyed only by foreign surf travelers willing to make the long trek to the Philippines to enjoy our perfect waves now bring the same joy to the local residents & to "weekend warriors" from Manila (uhm, that means me, haha). 
It's comforting, exciting, and wonderful.  Well, just take out the possibilities of environmental abuse, overcrowding, drugs, corruption,  government greed and other crimes & problems that progress usually brings, I'm hoping the future looks bright for surfing in the Philippines (sorry for that bit of "nega", these are my random thoughts on a Saturday afternoon so I don't know where that came from)
I can't wait for a local book on Philippine surfing to be made.  I hope we are archiving these years well while it's happening.  

No comments:

Post a Comment